A new car comes with several factory warranties at once, each with its own time and mileage limit. The main ones are the bumper-to-bumper (basic) warranty, usually 3 years/36,000 miles to 5 years/60,000 miles; the powertrain warranty, usually 5 years/60,000 miles to 10 years/100,000 miles; a corrosion warranty against rust-through; a federally required emissions warranty; and, on hybrids and EVs, a separate battery warranty that commonly runs 8 years/100,000 miles or longer.
Knowing which warranty covers which part tells you whether a repair should be free, and it helps you compare cars before you buy. This guide walks through each type, typical terms by brand group, certified pre-owned coverage, what can void a warranty, and the federal law that protects you when you use an independent shop. Extended warranties (which are really service contracts) are a separate topic and aren’t covered here.
How factory warranties work and compare
Factory warranties promise to repair defects in materials or workmanship at no charge for a set number of years or miles, “whichever comes first.” The clock usually starts on the in-service date, which is the day the car was first sold or put into use as a demo or loaner. That’s why a “new” leftover car with 4,000 demo miles may have less coverage left than you expect.
Warranties cover failures, not wear. Brake pads, wiper blades, tires (covered by the tire maker), oil changes and alignment are maintenance items you pay for. Damage from accidents, weather, road debris and misuse isn’t covered either. In most cases the factory warranty transfers to the next owner automatically if you sell the car, though a few brands shorten some coverage for second owners.
Here’s what each type generally covers and the range of terms you’ll see on 2026 models. Exact terms vary by brand and sometimes by model, so check the warranty booklet for your specific vehicle.
| Warranty type | What it generally covers | Typical terms |
|---|---|---|
| Bumper-to-bumper (basic or new vehicle limited) | Most parts: electrical, air conditioning, infotainment, sensors, suspension, power accessories | 3 yr/36,000 mi (most mainstream brands) to 5 yr/60,000 mi |
| Powertrain | Engine, transmission, drive axles and related internal parts | 5 yr/60,000 mi to 10 yr/100,000 mi |
| Corrosion (perforation) | Body panels that rust all the way through | 5 to 12 years, often unlimited miles |
| Federal emissions | Emissions control and emissions-related parts | 2 yr/24,000 mi; 8 yr/80,000 mi for catalytic converter and engine computer |
| Hybrid or EV battery | High-voltage battery and, often, related electric drive parts | Commonly 8 yr/100,000 mi; some brands 10 yr/100,000 or 150,000 mi |
| Certified pre-owned | Extra coverage on inspected used cars, set by the automaker’s program | Often 12 months/12,000 mi comprehensive plus extended powertrain |
Bumper-to-bumper and powertrain coverage
Bumper-to-bumper coverage is the broadest. Despite the name, it doesn’t literally cover everything between the bumpers. It excludes maintenance and wear items, and some trim pieces or audio parts may have shorter coverage. On a modern car it matters a lot, because electronics like touchscreens, cameras and driver-assist sensors can be expensive to fix.
Powertrain coverage lasts longer but covers less. It typically includes the engine block and internal parts, the transmission, the transfer case on all-wheel-drive models, axles and the parts that send power to the wheels. Gaskets and seals are often covered only when they’re needed as part of a covered repair.
Typical terms fall into three groups:
- Mainstream brands such as Toyota, Honda, Ford and Chevrolet usually offer 3 years/36,000 miles basic and 5 years/60,000 miles powertrain.
- Luxury brands commonly offer 4 years/50,000 miles basic, and some add a longer powertrain warranty, often 6 years/70,000 miles.
- Hyundai, Kia, Genesis and Mitsubishi offer 5 years/60,000 miles basic and 10 years/100,000 miles powertrain. For Hyundai and Kia, the 10-year powertrain coverage applies to the original owner, and later owners get 5 years/60,000 miles.
Example: Luis buys a three-year-old used crossover from a private seller. It has 41,000 miles and a mainstream brand’s 3/36 and 5/60 warranties. The bumper-to-bumper warranty has expired, but the powertrain warranty still has about two years and 19,000 miles left. When the transmission starts slipping at 47,000 miles, the dealer repairs it under warranty at no cost. A failed backup camera a month later is his to pay for.
Corrosion and emissions warranties
Corrosion warranties usually cover perforation, meaning rust that eats a hole through a body panel from the inside out. Surface rust, rust from paint chips, and rust caused by collision damage are generally excluded. Terms range from about 5 years to 12 years, often with no mileage cap, and some brands cover surface corrosion for a shorter period.
The emissions warranty is required by federal law, so every new light-duty vehicle has one. According to EPA guidance, it has two parts. The design and defect warranty covers emissions control and emissions-related parts that fail because of defects. The performance warranty covers repairs needed to pass a required state or local emissions test, as long as the failure wasn’t caused by misuse or skipped maintenance.
- Most covered parts: 2 years/24,000 miles. This includes items such as oxygen sensors, EGR valves, fuel injectors, PCV valves and certain ignition parts.
- Specified major components: 8 years/80,000 miles. These are the catalytic converter, the electronic emissions control unit (engine computer) and the onboard diagnostic device.
Cars sold in California and states that follow its rules may have longer emissions coverage on some parts. Your warranty booklet lists the exact parts and terms.
Example: Tanya’s sedan is six years old with 74,000 miles when it fails a state emissions test because of a bad catalytic converter. Her basic and powertrain warranties are long gone, but the converter falls under the federal 8-year/80,000-mile emissions warranty. She brings the failed test report to a dealer, and the converter is replaced free. Converter replacements often cost over $1,000 out of warranty.
Hybrid and EV battery warranties
High-voltage batteries get their own warranty because they’re the most expensive part in the car. Most automakers cover hybrid, plug-in hybrid and EV batteries for at least 8 years/100,000 miles. Some go further: Toyota has covered hybrid batteries for 10 years/150,000 miles starting with 2020 models, and Hyundai and Kia list 10 years/100,000 miles.
EV battery warranties often cover capacity loss as well as outright failure, but only below a set threshold, frequently around 70 percent of original capacity. A battery that has lost 15 percent of its range is usually considered normal aging, not a defect. California’s rules require 2026 and newer zero-emission vehicles sold under its program to carry an 8-year/100,000-mile battery warranty tied to that kind of health threshold.
Read the fine print on what counts as the “battery.” Some warranties also include the inverter, onboard charger and drive motor, while others cover those for a shorter period.
Certified pre-owned warranties
A certified pre-owned (CPO) car is a used vehicle that passed the automaker’s inspection and meets its age and mileage limits. Manufacturer CPO programs add warranty coverage on top of whatever factory warranty remains. Toyota’s Gold program, for example, adds 12 months/12,000 miles of comprehensive coverage and a 7-year/100,000-mile powertrain warranty for vehicles six model years old or newer with 85,000 miles or fewer.
Be careful with the word “certified.” A dealer-certified car is backed by the dealer or a third party, not the automaker, and the coverage may be much thinner. Ask who backs the warranty, when coverage starts (the original in-service date or your purchase date), and whether there’s a deductible per visit.
What can void a car warranty
Automakers can deny a specific claim when the damage was caused by something other than a defect. A full warranty cancellation is rare and usually tied to a branded title. Common reasons for denial include:
- A salvage, flood or junk title, which often ends factory coverage entirely.
- Skipped maintenance that leads to the failure, like an engine that seizes after oil changes were missed.
- Aftermarket modifications that cause the damage, such as an engine tune that leads to a blown turbo.
- Racing, off-road abuse, or towing beyond the rated capacity.
- Tampering with the odometer or emissions equipment.
- Environmental damage from flood, hail or road salt that isn’t a covered defect.
To protect your coverage, follow the maintenance schedule in the owner’s manual and keep every receipt, including for work you do yourself. The FTC notes that a warranty company may ask for records like oil changes and tire rotations, and a claim may be denied without them.
Your rights under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act
The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act is the federal law, passed in 1975 and enforced by the Federal Trade Commission, that governs written warranties on consumer products, including cars. It does a few practical things for drivers:
- It bars “tie-in” conditions. A manufacturer generally can’t require you to use its brand of parts or its dealers for maintenance to keep the warranty, unless it provides those parts or services free.
- It puts the burden on the manufacturer. Using an aftermarket or recycled part, or having an independent shop do the work, doesn’t void the warranty by itself. The manufacturer or dealer must show that the part or the work caused the damage before denying that repair.
- It requires clear terms. Written warranties must be labeled “full” or “limited,” and nearly all car warranties are limited.
- It gives you a path to court. If a company breaks its written warranty, you can sue and may recover attorney’s fees.
The FTC’s guide to auto warranties and service contracts explains these rules in plain language. Separate state lemon laws cover new cars with defects that can’t be fixed after repeated attempts, and safety recalls are repaired free whether or not your warranty is active. You can check open recalls by VIN through NHTSA’s recall lookup.
Common questions
What is the difference between bumper-to-bumper and powertrain warranties?
Bumper-to-bumper coverage includes most parts of the car, including electronics and accessories, but lasts a shorter time, usually 3 to 5 years. Powertrain coverage lasts longer, usually 5 to 10 years, but only covers the engine, transmission and drive parts. Both exclude routine maintenance and wear items.
Does using an independent mechanic void my warranty?
No. Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, a manufacturer can’t void your warranty just because an independent shop did the maintenance or used aftermarket parts. Coverage can be denied for a specific repair only if the outside work or part caused the damage. Keep receipts for all service.
Does the factory warranty transfer when I sell my car?
Most factory warranties transfer automatically to the next owner for the remaining time and miles. Some brands reduce certain coverage for later owners, such as Hyundai and Kia’s 10-year powertrain warranty dropping to 5 years/60,000 miles. Check the warranty booklet for transfer rules.
How long is the federal emissions warranty?
Federal rules require 2 years/24,000 miles of coverage on emissions control and emissions-related parts. The catalytic converter, engine computer and onboard diagnostic device are covered for 8 years/80,000 miles. Some states, including California, require longer coverage on certain parts.
Is a hybrid battery covered under warranty?
Yes, most hybrid and EV batteries have a separate warranty, commonly 8 years/100,000 miles. Some automakers offer more, such as Toyota’s 10-year/150,000-mile hybrid battery coverage on 2020 and newer models. EV warranties often cover capacity loss only below a set level, often around 70 percent.
Before you rely on your warranty
- Find your vehicle’s in-service date and current mileage to see which warranties are still active.
- Read the warranty booklet for each coverage type, including exclusions and transfer rules.
- Keep maintenance records and receipts in one place, whoever does the work.
- If a repair is denied, ask for the reason in writing and which part or action caused the failure.
- Check for open recalls and service campaigns by VIN before paying for a repair.
- When buying used or CPO, confirm who backs the warranty and when coverage started.
Editorial note: This article is general information, not legal advice. Warranty terms were checked as of October 2026 and change by brand, model and year, so confirm coverage in your warranty booklet or with the manufacturer, and see FTC.gov and EPA.gov for federal rules.